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汇聚国际大咖 碰撞智慧火花——第八届亚洲食学论坛特邀嘉宾及演讲内容简介

“文化与文明:开启餐桌新时代”为主题的第八届亚洲食学论坛将于2018年10月19-22日在北京举行。拟邀请演讲嘉宾及演讲内容,介绍如下:

演讲嘉宾(一)

 

演讲人简介:雅各布·克莱恩(Jakob Klein),英国伦敦大学食学研究中心教授(Chair, SOAS Food Studies Centre, University of London).长期致力于中国现代饮食消费的社会人类学研究。出版有The Handbook of Food and Anthropology. London: Bloomsbury Academic,2016;  Ethical Eating in the Postsocialist and Socialist World. Berkeley: University of California Press,2014; Food Consumption in Global Perspective: Essays in the Anthropology of Food in Honour of Jack Goody. Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire: Palgrave Macmillan,2014; Consuming China: approaches to cultural change in contemporary China. London; New York: Routledge,2006.

演讲题目——吃土豆是爱国的!现代中国的国家、市场与普通商品/Eating potatoes is patriotic! State, market and the common good in contemporary China

内容摘要:Ethical food consumption has typically been addressed by scholars in the context of alternative food movements, and debates have revolved around the role of capitalist markets in furthering or appropriating these movements’ ethical goals. Yet states, too, attempt to shape food consumption in ways that may be understood as ‘ethical’, and often do so with the help of market mechanisms. This paper explores attempts since 2015 by the Chinese state to promote the potato as a Chinese staple food. According to China’s Ministry of Agriculture, the ethical benefits of the potato include strengthening national food security, furthering environmental sustainability in Chinese agriculture, and improving the nation’s dietary health. But how does the reform socialist state go about promoting this ‘foreign tuber’, as the potato is known in many dialects, among Chinese eaters? Does the state try to convince citizens that eating potatoes is for their own benefit and rely on the ‘hidden hand of the market’ to translate individual self-interest into a greater common good, as historian Rebecca Earle has argued was the case of potato-promotion in eighteenth century Europe? Or does it appeal to citizens’ moral values, including their concern with national well-being, strength, and environmental health? And how does it balance the patriotic potential of the potato with its foreign origins and associations with Western cuisines, include fast food? Through an investigation of potato-promotion, this paper seeks to shed light on the relationship in China’s contemporary, reform-socialist political culture between state and market, individualism and morality, and nationalism and internationalism.

 

演讲嘉宾(二)

 

演讲人简介:萨班(Francoise Sabban),法国社会科学高等研究院教授,国际著名食物文化研究专家。萨班教授还是法国社会科学高等研究院现当代中国研究中心主任,研究领域主要是中国饮食史、中国社会生活史、欧洲烹饪史。发表有关中国食物研究论著有《近百年中国饮食史研究综述(1911-2011)》、《味道和色彩:14世纪欧洲与中国宫廷饮食的比较研究》、《食物史专家是否有助于理解孔子?——基于<论语>外文译本的思考》、《An experience of otherness: Conceptions of Chinese and European travelers about foreign food practices in the 19th century》等。

演讲题目——2018年食学研究是什么?/ What is the 2018 Food Studies?

 

演讲嘉宾(三)

 

演讲人简介:石毛直道(Naomichi Ishige),日本大阪民族学博物馆教授,原馆长。 石毛直道先国际闻名遐迩的食文化研究泰斗。石毛直道先生深谙中国文化,系较早研究中国食文化的日本学者之一。他酷爱食文化研究、注重实地调研并亲自实践。他遍访世界近百个国家与地区,使其见多识广、博学多才、资料丰富。他因为拥有考古学、史学、文学、农学、文化人类学等的深厚功底,使其能够跨学科地从不同视角研究食文化,业已获得突出业绩。他著述等身,问世之作品达2800余件,他将其中自己单独撰写的部分整理出版了《石毛直道自选著作集》(共12卷)。他在研究食文化过程中,提出很多新名词、新概念、新理论。由于他出类拔萃的研究成果,曾荣获多种奖项。

演讲题目——筷子的文明与文化/ the Culture and civilization of Chopstick

内容摘要:本次演讲将以中国文明中所形成的、以筷子、勺工具的进食方法为主要对象,通过朝鲜半岛与日本的事例来考察中国的进食方法在与周边各民族的饮食文化相结合的过程中所发生的变化与发展。

 

演讲嘉宾(四)

  

 

演讲人简介:朝仓敏夫(Toshio Asakura),日本立命馆大学美食综合管理学院教授。日本著名食文化研究专家。目前主持在日本立命馆大学筹建第一所有关食学研究的本科学院。

演讲题目——日本的食学研究与高等教育/Food research and higher education in Japan

内容摘要:Food research and higher education in Japan have been mainly focused on agriculture, nutrition and cooking science. In recent years, diet research in the humanities and social sciences has become active, and the establishment of new colleges and departments that teach them are continuing even in universities. I will introduce cases of Miyagi University, Ryukoku University, Ritsumeikan University on such movements. Also, as a result of "Wasyoku" being registered as a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, the department of Japanese food culture will be newly established at Kyoto Prefectural University in 2019. In addition, "The Society of Japanese Food Studies" was established along with this. 

 

演讲嘉宾(五)

  

 

演讲人简介:赵荣光,浙江工商大学中国饮食文化研究所所长、亚洲食学论坛荣誉主席赵荣光教授。赵荣光教授是中国泰斗级食文化专家,中国杭帮菜博物馆荣誉馆长。同时任中国食文化研究会(国家一级)副会长、杭州美食文化品牌促进会会长、内蒙古师范大学科学技术史研究院、华中农大、南农大等全国多所大学客座教授、韩国食生活文化学会特聘外籍研究员。曾获中华人民共和国商业部“部级优秀专家”(92•103)、浙江省高校“三育人先进人物”、中国食文化研究会“中国食文化突出贡献专家”等省部级以上荣誉,享受国务院政府特殊津贴(93•3210071)。出版有《中华饮食文化史》、《满汉全席源流考述》等多部卓有影响的食学专著。

演讲题目——餐桌文明:21世纪的中华民族文化自觉/Table manners in China: To take responsibilities in 21st century 

 

演讲嘉宾(六)

  

 

演讲人简介:贝一明(Emanuel Pastreich),美国亚洲研究所理事长,耶鲁大学东洋研究委员会特邀研究员。曾任韩国庆熙大学副教授、伊利诺助理执于乔治·华盛顿加 长,曾任韩国庆熙大学副教授、伊利诺伊大学助理教授,还曾于乔治·华盛顿大学、加利福尼亚大学伯克利分校执教。曾在 美国《外交评论》、《日本焦点》、韩国《中央日报》、《哈佛亚洲研究杂志》等期刊或报纸发表中日韩思想文化比较与评述性文章。

演讲题目——立足未来可持续农业的中华礼仪与斯文之“禮/ The Chinese concept of rites and propriety (“li”) as the key to a sustainable agricultural future

内容摘要:Food has increasingly been commercialized in East Asia, encouraging waste and thoughtless consumption. It is hard to find a table at a restaurant at which customers do not leave uneaten food behind. In fact, many in Asia consider that if there is no food left behind, you have not treated your guests properly. 

But such a culture is inappropriate to our current ecological crisis. It also goes against traditional Asian culture, and specifically Chinese Confucian culture that made humility, frugality and simplicity the highest virtue.This paper explores the concepts of propriety (li) and respect (respect) as they emerged in the Chinese tradition of ritual sacrifice and suggests how these terms imply a spiritual tie between humans and the natural world (heaven) which gives food deep significance, but is not tied to a consumer society. 

The paper concludes with some suggestions as to how this tradition could be revived in our current age.

 

演讲嘉宾(七)

 

演讲人简介:梁思雅(Cecilia Leong-Salobir),澳大利亚伍伦贡大学(University of Wollongong)研究员。对上海、新加坡以及悉尼华人社区以及东南亚移民社区的饮食生活素有研究。出版有多部著作。

演讲题目——20世纪悉尼和新加坡的华侨与饮食 /Food and the Chinese Diaspora in Twentieth-century Sydney and Singapore 

内容摘要:Chinese presence in the cities of  twentieth-century Sydney and Singapore were directly influenced by British colonial structures. The Chinese in Sydney arrived in the years of the gold rush. The colonial government in Singapore encouraged Chinese settlers to help develop the colony. This paper discusses the ways in which the Chinese contributed to foodways in three areas: market gardens, street food and Chinatowns.

Early Chinese immigrants to Australia came looking for riches in gold and many of them ended up feeding Australians from their market gardens, their market stalls and from selling fruit and vegetables door to door. From the early years of their arrival, the Chinese were seen as primary producers, growing vegetables and reared pigs in the goldfields.  Just as they faced racial discrimination in the gold fields, both verbally and physical, growing and selling vegetables were also seen as stealing the livelihood of Australians.  The White Australia Policy was in force from 1901 to 1973.  

In the 1950s there were thousands of small, commercialized and intensively worked Chinese farms, that produced food all over Singapore.  These were high yielding and labor-intensive farms, averaging between two and three acres each. Significantly the practices followed  in these vegetable farms had migrated from South China without essential change from South China to Singapore.

Hawker centers in Singapore grew out of the early street food from the early days of colonizations when migrant labour arrived from  China and other parts of Asia. Street food items were replicated from dishes from China, many were modified with local ingredients. The first consignment of rickshaws to Singapore came from Shanghai in 1880 as a cheap and efficient means of transport. The Chinese rickshaw pullers worked long hours, from early morning to late at night and helped spawn street food culture. Itinerant food vendors fed the rickshall pullers with cheap food. By 1924 there were 28,800 rickshaws on the road, providing transport to every strata of society. 

Chinatown became known as Singapore’s “Black Hole” and “Chicago of the East” in the early 1900s. At the same time, the street markets, operatic shows and cabaret dances helped to make it the heart of the city. A peculiar feature of colonial town planning in Chinatown was the five-foot way along the streets where market traders in food did a roaring business. Life in shophouses and in the streets below merged seamlessly. Upper storey residents used contraptions to haul up bowls of noodles from street hawkers. Hawkers roamed the streets, carrying baskets on poles over shoulders, peddling bananas, starfruit and durian. Between the 1950s and 1960s there were more than 1000 street stalls in Chinatown.  

In twentieth-century Sydney, urban Chinese market gardeners gathered in Chinatown to eat at Chinese restaurants, buy at grocery stores and meet other Chinese after delivering their produce. Usually the market gardens were located near Chinatowns. Chinese merchants in Chinatown were instrumental in assisting newly arrived Chinese to make contact with business networks. Chinese merchants played a key role in housing newly arrived countrymen, providing them with food, lodging and information about job opportunities in Sydney and rural areas. They helped market gardeners negotiate with bureaucracy and acted as banks, providing them with finance for their enterprises, helping them remit money to their families in China and bailing them out if they were arrested for gambling. They also arranged return travel to China and sponsored new migrants, both legally and illegally.

The historical approach adopted for this paper includes newspapers, magazines, government archives, memoirs, cookbooks and diaries.

 

演讲嘉宾(八)

  

 

演讲人简介:周永河(Young-ha Joo),韩国韩国学中央研究院、韩国学大学院教授。韩国知名食物文化与历史学专家。通过文化人类学、历史学等多学科方法,长时间从事亚洲食物研究。出版有大量涉及民族食物、战争与食品、餐桌礼仪等方面的著作,如Kimchi, a Korean food: the cultural anthropology of Kimchi. Seoul: Gonggan, 1994; Food wars, Culture Wars. Seoul: Sagyejeol, 2000; China, Chinese, Chinese food. Seoul: Chaeksesang, 2000; Food in paintings, history in food. Seoul: Sagyejeol, 2005; Ch’apon, chanp’on, tchamppong: the past and present of East Asian food. Seoul: Sagyejeol, 2010;Delicious history of the world. Seoul: Sowadang, 2010; The cultural anthropology of food: Korean history and culture viewed from the perspective of food. Seoul: Hyumeoniseuteu, 2011; A Korean history on dinner table: the 20th-century cultural history of food viewed through menus. Seoul: Hyumeoniseuteu, 2013; Imperialism and colonialism in the food industry in East Asia: focusing on instant Ramen. Leiden: International Institute for Asian Studies The Newsletter(75), 2016; Why do Koreans eat like this?: A Cultural History of Food in Korea Investigated through the Dining Custom]. Seoul: Hyumeoniseuteu. (Korean language source),2018.

演讲题目——炸酱面之路: 东亚的华侨和中餐

内容摘要: 该文是要说明及解释中餐面条之一的炸酱面与华侨一起移动和传播和进化在东亚的各个地方的过程。炸酱面本身是京及鲁的菜。从1882年以后,鲁东人集体地移居到朝鲜半岛的仁川,为了解决自己的饮食问题,他们就小规模的中餐厅开业了。这种中餐厅的菜谱里有炸酱面。这是在韩国最初出现的炸酱面。但是当时的炸酱面是华侨为主的面条,不是韩国人的饮食。1931年满洲事变发生之后,韩国的华侨不得不靠近了日本帝国的政策。他们的主要贸易的对象也变为日本九州的长崎的华侨和日帝占領的台湾。这样的贸易交流当中,仁川的炸酱面传来到长崎唐人街,以后炸酱面与長崎ちゃんぽん(什锦面)成为主要长崎中餐厅的菜谱之一。一方,韩国战争(朝鲜战争)以后,美国政府向韩国政府免费提供了大量小麦,因此韩国人历史上能够吃到最多的小麦。而且韩国华侨经营的中餐馆的面条也流行起来了,随着韩国人爱好炸酱面的历史开始了。1960-1980年代小学校和中高学校毕业的韩国人必须有毕业典礼后家族一起在华侨的中餐馆吃过炸酱面的经验。1992年中韩建交后,一大批的韩国人来到中国大陆。他们认为只进去本地的任何中餐厅就能吃炸酱面。然而他们找不到炸酱面,也吃不到炸酱面。2000年代以后,根据老北京热风的趋势,炸酱面再次成为北京的中餐厅的菜单之一。

 

演讲嘉宾(九)

  

 

演讲人简介:崔琦雅·帕特里齐亚(Patrizia Le Trecchia),美国南弗罗里达大学副教授。长时间从事饮食景观学、食物与政治等相关研究。是美国TED节目“A War on Food Waste”讲者,是美国极受欢迎的食物研究者与传播者。

演讲题目——饮食景观与饮食地图:口味的政治、地区与可持续性/ Foodscapes and Foodmaps: Politics of Taste, Place, and Sustainability

内容摘要:This presentation will explore some of the current trends in our food system through the intersections of foodscapes (places and spaces where meaning from food is informed) and foodmaps (cultural exploration of places through food). Paying attention to global interaction and environments, this paper will analyze selected texts, practices, and examples of sustainable food discourses in Italian and US media and culture that exemplify the way in which people relate to food, the visual foodscapes embedded in these representations, the dynamics of power and social injustice these texts reveal, the cultural and emotional poetics they generate through the sense of place and home, and the different communities and food trends they create.

 

演讲嘉宾(十)

 

演讲人简介:纽曼(Jacqueline M. Newman),美国纽约皇后学院(Queens College-CUNY)教授,美国唯一全英文中国烹饪类杂志《Flavor&Fortune》主编。长时间从事中国烹饪、美食艺术、中国区域饮食等相关研究。出版有《中餐烹饪书》Chinese Cookbooks: An Annotated English-Language Compendium (1987), Cooking from China's Fujian Province and Food Culture in China (2004)。她还是美国牛津百科全书有关中餐此条的定义者。她因在中国烹饪研究及传播领域的杰出贡献,先后荣获Amelia Award(2009), Most Influential Personalities in American Chinese Restaurant Industry(2010)等国际性奖项。

演讲题目——煎炒烹炸:中餐在美国/Wok's Cooking: Chinese Food in the United States 

内容摘要:When did Chinese food get to the United States of America (US)?  This paper finds the earliest printed materials are about a monk/missionary by the name of Hoei Shin, and those he traveled there with in 499 CE but does advise the US is then called Fusang.  Little else is located in English until materials published in 1589, 1761, 1979, and thereafter.  None gives information of any food Hoei or others saw or tasted?  While travel is possible after the last Ice Age (15,000 BCE) across the Bering Strait or by ship nothing is written in English about Chinese food until the travels of Marco Polo in the 1300s.   This paper discusses some of the first Chinese foods and meals in the US and how they impacted later Chinese foods in the US and the first Chinese foods, where served, seen, and consumed in the US.  It also tells why and how they got there, and why and where they are cooked, served, and consumed in the US.  Needed are others researching, publishing, and reporting in English, the world’s lingua franca, about Chinese foods to expand what is known outside of China about all facets of Chinese cuisine.

 

演讲嘉宾(十一)

 

演讲人简介:温铁军,现任中国人民大学学术委员会副主任,中国人民大学农业与农村发展学院教授、博士生导师,兼任西南大学中国乡村建设学院执行院长,福建农林大学海峡乡建学院执行院长。

演讲题目——生态农业与慢村慢食慢生活

 

演讲嘉宾(十二)

  

 

演讲人简介:忽辛(Hanafi Hussin),马来西亚国立大学教授。长时间从事东南亚饮食研究。发表有Seaweed Cultivation and Coastal Communities in Malaysia: An Overview等多项论著。

演讲题目——海上丝路沿线的饮食传统/food tradition along the Maritime Silk Road 

 

演讲嘉宾(十三)

 

演讲人简介:雍莉(Alice de Jong),荷兰莱顿大学研究员。Kkikoman“口味的分享”亚欧食物文化与交流课题组核心成员。曾受邀在复旦大学等诸多学府就亚欧饮食文化交流发表主题演讲,该议题与我国“一带一路”沿线国家的相关研究密切相关。

演讲题目——亚洲食物文化在欧洲的传播/Asia Food Culture in Europe 

 

演讲嘉宾(十四)

 

演讲人简介:马嘎诺里·斯特凡诺(Stefano Magagnoli),意大利帕尔玛大学经济系副教授、博士。

演讲题目——留住活态记忆:食物原产地名称溯源/Keep alive memory: at the roots of the food designations of origin

内容摘要:Historians and scholars of different disciplines have often asked where the air of “unicity”, “typicality” and “authenticity”, nowadays guaranteed for the European products by Designations of Origin, comes from. This “aura”, even though is often an “invention of tradition” for marketing purposes, is based on the truth, and is rooted in a long-run history. This history is often made of authentic excellences, and gives certain products a competitive advantage compared to commodities with similar organoleptic qualities but lacking in any territorial and symbolic link. Undoubtedly, before the European system of Designations of Origin, the element that made a product recognisable and gave it value was its “reputation”, a very complex concept made by a mix of social, economic and political elements.

This paper aims to share with other scholars some findings and reflections on the topic of reputation in history, underlining its role in constructing a deeply rooted Food Heritage. This heritage has great importance on the economic side but it is also an important feature of social identity. In other words, the paper aims to show that the products linked to a specific place (the European typical products) had an explicit reputation even before the PDO system was realized. The paper is based on the experience of Italy which, together with France, holds the majority of the total amount of the European PDO.

 

本届论坛报名参会信息,详见

2018北京亚洲食学论坛报名二号通知

 



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